Dinner In The Sky Malaysia officially returns for its third time, making its southern metropolis debut in Johor at Puteri Harbour, Iskandar Puteri. (New) Chef Brian Fisher and pastry chef Mari Katsumura make a formidable group in this Lakeview spot, especially when the former’s sturdy, sweat-the-particulars meals (chicken-liver mousse topped with Old Usual-flavor aspic) meet the latter’s breads.
Chad and Hanna Williams’ reincarnation of the Rittenhouse icon appears like an ode to yesteryear projected via the lens of modern American eating: classic glassware come bearing present-stealing cocktails; plump, ice-chilly shrimp get dunked in a marie rose sauce that’s traditional in software, but with the spicy spritz of yuzu koshu, completely updated; even the lowly carrot is a star here, its sweetness punched up with a burnt coconut crumble.
Graham, previously a sous chef, took over behind the range across the same time and OFM’s Best Restaurant award – beforehand gained by The Palomar in 2015 and final year by Barrafina, Adelaide Avenue – is proof that Pidgin continues to thrill.
Four years ago, at the age of 24, Tommy Banks turned the youngest British head chef ever to win a Michelin star. In an outdated corner-shop-turned-wine-bar in Clapton is P. …